If you have been following our guide, you should now have sides of vans that include conduits full of wires, insulation, and wooded ribs along the metal framework of your van. On to it, we put walls.
You can’t do a van conversion without putting up walls. They are essential, and so is this guide. Not only do the walls affect the overall look and feel of your van, but you’re going to need to consider materials for their impact on weight, ease of cleaning and ease of installation. The good news is that there are only really a few ways to do it, and we’ll cover the obvious ones here.
If you are building as we build, and you have the insulation underneath the framework. When you put up a wall, whether you use plywood sheets, tongue and groove or something else, you are going to create some empty space between your newly erected wall and the existing insulation behind.
A smart thing to do is to pack more insulation in this gap. A super smart thing to do would be to use a material like Plywood and stick Reflectix on the inside of it, to create a second Reflectix sandwich of insulation. [From the outside in: Reflectix -> insulation -> Reflectix -> Framework and insulation -> Reflectix]
Types of walls
Plywood
When it comes to choosing wall materials for your campervan conversion, plywood is a popular option, it’s affordable and easy to work with.
It is simple to cut, trim, and drill to fit your van’s dimensions. It also acts as a moisture barrier, keeping your insulation dry and providing a sturdy base for your wall finishes. Decorative plywood, which is beautiful when sanded and sealed correctly is a premium choice for professionally-built campervan’s and caravans.
Plywood comes in different grades, with A being the highest quality. Marine plywood is a high-grade option that is ideal for campervan’s that will be exposed to the elements. you can get away with some B grade plywood for your walls.
5.5mm- 9mm plywood is the most common choice for campervan wall panels.
Worth noting that while almost everyone will opt to go for plywood, it may not have the same wow factor as other materials such as ACP or timber panels.
Cladding
The timber panelling (tongue and groove) is a defining feature of any van conversion and adds character and warmth to your ‘cabin’. However, it’s important to keep in mind that this installation requires more effort than plywood. You’ll need to cut and drill more, and you’ll always have to double-check that your lines are straight.
If you’re willing to put in the extra work, tongue and groove panels are definitely a solid wall option! Pine and cedar are both excellent options for timber panelling, with cedar being more expensive but resistant to mould and mildew. Pine, on the other hand, is more affordable and durable. Regardless of the type you choose, 7mm boards are recommended. Thinner panelling is lighter, more affordable, takes up less space, and can bend to your van’s curved surfaces.
The upside of timber panelling is the unique character it brings to your campervan, creating a cosy cabin vibe that looks and feels fantastic. If installed correctly, the panelling can follow the arc of your van’s curved surfaces. One downside is that it’s not as affordable as plywood, nor as easy to install.
Apart from tongue and groove timber panels, there are other options for cladding your campervan. Scrap wood or pallet wood is a popular choice for those who want a bohemian look, but keep in mind that it has a high moisture content and can warp over time. Slatted cladding is rare but looks incredible when done well.
MDF or particle board should be avoided for building walls in a campervan. Scrap wood or pallet wood may contain woodworm and have a high moisture content that can cause warping, so don’t use that either.
Aluminium Composite Panels
Aluminium Composite Panels (ACP) are an option, increasing in popularity, for campervan walls and ceilings. ACP is made of two thin layers of aluminium that are bonded to a polyethylene core, providing a sleek and modern look to the interior of your van.
One of the biggest advantages of ACP is its durability. It is waterproof and stain-resistant, making it easy to clean and maintain. Additionally, it is fairly flexible and insulated, which helps to keep your van warm during colder months. ACP is also available in a wide range of colours, giving you the flexibility to choose a finish that matches your personal style.
However, there are a few downsides to consider before deciding to use ACP in your van conversion. It is more expensive than timber options and weighs more than timber, which can affect your van’s overall weight and fuel efficiency.
How to install: Plywood
Step 1: Measure and mark the dimensions of the target section using cardboard, taking note of where your ribs are.
Step 2: Cut a cardboard template and trim as necessary to achieve a flush fit.
Step 3: Trace the template onto plywood sheeting and use a circular saw to cut along the trace.
Step 4: (optional) Cut out internal space for windows using a drill bit and jigsaw, if required. Same goes to create holes for electrical sockets/ light sockets etc.
Step 5: Test fit plywood and trim as needed for a perfect fit.
Step 6: Affix plywood to studs using screws that are short enough to avoid the exterior metalwork.
Remember to countersink all your screws.
Step 7: Repeat for the rest of the plywood sheeting.
How to install: Cladding
Step 1: Choose the right type of cladding: 8 to 10mm tongue and groove cladding is typically used for van conversions.
Step 2: Install the cladding: Once you have your wooden framework in place, attach the cladding to it. Offer up cladding length to the space, mark it, cut it, countersink the drill holes, screw it in to the ribs.
Stagger the joints of the cladding to provide a stronger wall panel and better aesthetics.
Cladding on the roof, floor, and walls should all run in the same direction.
Sanding
To achieve a smooth finish on your walls, you will probably need an electric sander, or be ready to roll up the sleeves and put in some work.
For the initial round of sanding, use an 80-grit sandpaper, followed by a second round of sanding with a 120-grit sandpaper.
It’s crucial to protect your lungs from micro dust particles and paint fumes by wearing a proper filtered mask while sanding.
Sealing
Next, use a water based floor varnish to seal all your walls.
If you want to do a proper job, you will need to re-sand at 120 grit and then re-seal.
And then do it once more, but use a 180 grit sandpaper.
You will use a disproportionate amount of varnish on the first run, as it soaks in. This is normal.
Apply using a sponge. Trust us, it’s much easier.
Always have a wet edge, don’t let the varnish dry on one streak to go over it again later.
If you want your wood at orgasmic levels of smoothness, finish with a very light sand of over 200 grit.
What we did
Our van came with walls. Good aye.
If you haven’t bought a van yet, be sure to learn our biggest van hack ever over on this article. It might save you 100 hours and 1000’s of pounds.