If you are venturing into this for the first time you might find it a bit tricky to understand the materials, pros and cons of each of the different window types. Plus how to fit them. We’ve recorded our research on the types of windows that are out there, and there’s a lot.
Considerations for your windows
Positioning
When it comes to choosing the position for your campervan windows, you have several options. The LH (left-hand) and RH (right-hand) positions are available for side windows.You can choose from sliding door, side panel, mid, rear 1/4, and rear door positions.
Make sure the windows are in the best spots for your designed layout.
Before ordering a window, it’s crucial to check the dimensions and positioning carefully. Keep in mind that different years and wheelbases of vans may have different dimensions so measure up your space, twice, and then double check the product listing. If you’re unsure, it’s always a good idea to contact the supplier.
Fixed vs Opening
One important decision to make is whether to choose fixed or opening (sliding) windows for the sliding door and side panel positions.
Opening windows have the massive advantage of providing ventilation, which we should know all about from here. But they do come at a higher cost, which is our utmost limiting factor. And, they are more easy to break into than fixed windows. It might be possible to mix and match between fixed and opening windows (of the same style) to get the best of both worlds.
Tint
Tint is a factor to consider when choosing campervan windows. When looking at window tint the percentage of light that the window allows through determines the tint level, so you can choose from clear and dark tint options.
Dark tint is great for privacy, and keeping the van slightly cooler (I think, unless that’s a placebo) while clear windows are ideal for letting in extra light. There isn’t a great deal of difference in price, usually, so if you can get tint why wouldn’t you.
DVLA
In the UK specifically, installing windows in the living area is a must if you want any hope of having your van reclassified with the DVLA as a campervan. You can read more about the requirements on the DVLA website.
And as always, we want to make sure we are taking into account the cost, the difficulty to install and the environmentally friendly option.
Window types
Glass
The Glass Window is the choice for van conversion-ists. It provides a clear view of the outside world and is aesthetically pleasing, blending in seamlessly with the vehicle’s design.
The downsides of glass is it’s heavy, installation can be a challenge (or an expense), and it’s easier to break into than some other options. They are usually single glazing, which causes condensation and unless you’re spending a bunch of money, you usually won’t find glass windows that open.
Bonded windows
Bonded windows are a modern type of window commonly used by van manufacturers since the early 2000’s. These windows are typically made of glass and attached to the van using a very strong adhesive strip.
When installed, bonded windows sit flush against the metalwork, making it less obvious that you have adapted your van, which is ideal for stealth camping. They also provide a larger field of vision since the edge is small.
However, they are (slightly) more prone to leaks than other window types if not fitted correctly, and single glazed glass can create condensation. Bonded windows are also a costly option, with prices starting at £120+ for a side door window.
Plastic (acrylic)
Originally designed for motorhomes, the plastic (read: acrylic) windows are not as sleek as bonded or polyvision windows, but they do offer several advantages They are mostly double glazed, which helps with insulation and reduces condensation and integrated flyscreens and blinds can be built in. Plus, because they are not glass, and therefore smashable, they are more secure.
Seitz windows
Seitz (the manufacturer) windows are considered the gold standard of Acrylic campervan windows. They are supposed to be of excellent quality and durability. Seitz windows contain the inner frame fitted to the van, a window pane that normally hinges up like a caravan window, a fly screen that pulls down, and a roller blind that pulls down.
The whole unit is well-made and provides a neat and complete all in one product. You would usually see these on “WoMo’s”, rather than self builds.
One of the biggest advantages of Seitz windows is the integrated fly screen and blinds, which is pretty neat. Additionally, the double-glazed polyplastic windows help with insulation and reduce condensation. They are also more secure than windows made of glass.
However, they are the most expensive type of window, with prices starting at £200+ for a single small window. They still have the problem that they scream campervan after being installed. You usually see these on the bigger older campervans.
Polyvision windows
Polyvision windows, which offer a sleek and modern look that sits flush against the body of your van, are like fancy acrylic windows.
One of the key benefits of Polyvision windows is their double glazing, which (again) helps with insulation and reduces condensation. Additionally, these windows can also come with integrated fly screens and blinds. Because they are plastic they are durable and pretty secure.
However, Polyvision windows have their drawbacks. They are designed to fit a perfectly flat panel, so bonding may be required on a panel van. Over time, the polyplastic material can become scratched or warped, which may require maintenance or replacement.
And while the sleek design of Polyvision windows adds to the overall aesthetic of your campervan, it does come at quite a high £cost.
Some other types of windows
Rubber mounted windows
Rubber-mounted windows are the classic, budget-friendly option for campervans. These windows are made of a flat sheet of glass that sits within a large rubber frame, which slots into a hole in the side of the van. Rubber-mounted windows are usually fixed and don’t open, but you can find some with a sliding section that allows air to travel in. They are not easy to install, but with prices starting at sub £100 for most vans, they are significantly cheaper than bonded windows.
However, rubber-mounted windows have a few disadvantages. They are not as flush with the van exterior as bonded windows (making them look a bit 1995, and like you’re definitely in a campervan) and the rubber frame can become discolored and deteriorate over time.
Portholes
Ahoy – the porthole. If you’re looking to add a touch of nautical flair to your campervan, a porthole window might be just what you need. This circular window is not only aesthetically pleasing, but it also provides a bit of privacy while still letting in natural light. And let’s be honest, who doesn’t love a good spy hole to pass the time?
But the benefits of a porthole window go beyond its charming appearance. Due to its shape and size, it’s not an easy entry point for unwanted visitors, making it a safe window, on the scale of break-in-ability. Some portholes even open.
Keep in mind that installing a porthole window requires a bit more work than simply cutting a straight line. You’ll need to make sure it’s securely fastened, and take the time to smooth out those curved edges. But if you’re up for the challenge, a porthole window can be a unique and eye-catching addition to your campervan.
Vent window
Vent windows are pretty cool looking, and they serve an important purpose. They are perfect for allowing air to circulate through your campervan, and provide a neat light source in areas you can’t fit an entire window.
Which is usually up near the top of the van, towards the back, where your bed probably is! They are typically small enough that you can leave them open without running too much risk of people breaking; they are virtually unbreakable.
Keep in mind that having a vent window might make it more apparent that your van is a camper, and that, if you are cutting holes in the side of your van, maybe you just make a big one and have a real window?
How to fit a window
For your first time, it is best to fit the window to the sliding door.
Once you have chosen the location of your window or vent, you need to get the right size window. You can buy a window that fits your measurements or make your own using the following steps. We recommend that you get one that comes with a template, but if you can’t do that, then the first step is to…
Make a template
Use paper or cardboard to create a template that you can cut around when making the hole in the van. Draw around the window and add the extra space required for the frame.
Cut around the outer line of your template with a sharp knife. This is only cardboard we’re working with, but for thoroughness, double-check the measurements before cutting. We’re going to use this to cut into our metal, so best get the measurements right from now.
Important note: The template size is the one recommended in the instructions, not the size of the window.
Mark the cut
Choose a dry day without rain. You don’t want to ruin your fancy new van by cutting a hole in it when it’s pouring outside.
Also pick a day when you don’t need to drive the van. The adhesive needs time to set and driving might knock the window out.
Take a good look at your glass before you cut anything, once it’s up it’s up. Test the window opens (if you have a fancy one) by opening and closing it, gently.
Park your van on level ground to ensure that your windows are level too. You don’t want lopsided windows.
Position your template in the center and level inside the van. Tape it down tight so it doesn’t go wandering off on its own, Blu-tak works well, or masking tape.
For full panel van window fitting, work from the inside of the van.
If not, put the template on the outside of the van and draw around it to create your cut line. You want to make sure it’s perfect, so take your time.
Measure the edges again to ensure it’s level and centered.
Tape up the underside of the jigsaw or put masking tape directly on the van around the cut area to prevent scratches. Scratches are the worst.
Drill the Starter holes
Drill two (or more) holes through the center of the template to the outside of the van.
They must be inside edge of the cut perimeter large enough for the jigsaw blade to fit into
Take extra care that the holes do not go over the line: this is very important. You do not want to drill the line. Drill inside the line.
(Usually, when doing this on wood, I’ll drill a hole near each corner and start each straight line from its own hole.)
Cut the holes
Measure and measure again before cutting the hole. This is your singularity point. If you need some more help on how to cut holes, we have more words on this specifically.
Pick up your trusty jigsaw with a fine-toothed metal blade and make sure you know which way the teeth are pointing – up or down – you don’t want metal filings flying in your face.
Start cutting from the hole towards the edge of the template, slow and steady wins the race and makes for a good window.
Keep your wits about you when approaching the corners and supporting struts. Take extra care.
After every 30cm or so, hit the pause button on your cutting and add some thick masking tape to the inside and outside of the van where you’ve just cut. This will help prevent any pesky metal flapping around and causing a nuisance.
Don’t forget to take extra care when cutting around the rounded corners. Think of it like trimming your beard – precision is key.
As you near the end of your cut, you might want to call in a partner to help lift the weight of the cut-out. You’ve come this far, don’t screw it up now.
Prepare for windows
Vacuum up every stray metal shaving both inside and out. They are sharp and unhelpful.
File down the rough edges with a sturdy metal file, taking care to straighten the edges and eliminate any sharp burrs. Probably, vacuum again.
Apply rust treatment to the exposed metal with a delicate brush, a necessary step to prevent the invasive rust from claiming the freshly cut edges.
Lay down a coat of primer using a smooth sweeping motion.
Coat the raw metal edges with rust-proofing paint.
Once the rust treatment has fully dried affix the trim (rubber frame) to the hole edge. You might need to cut some down, which you can do with a stanley knife.
Wipe down the back of the window and the exterior of the van with an alcohol wipe, ensuring that the surfaces will adhere to one another with a firm bond.
Fit the window
If it’s a cold day, warm up the bonding adhesive.
Apply the adhesive in a continuous bead around the edge of the window. Try not to get it anywhere else, this stuff dries strong.
Offer the windows up, with one person inside and one outside. Having two people will really help here.
Use suction cups to handle the glass and push it firmly into place.
Slightly wiggle the window to get a good seal all around.
Add any last minute sealant required to make it fit securely.
Support the weight of the window with tape. Thick masking tape will do.
Adjust and commit
Adjust the window, so it sits nicely in the hole
Check for any gaps between the window and the van, and seal these with sealant.
Once taped, leave in place for at least 24 hours to allow the adhesive to cure completely. That means no driving!
What materials will you need?
A window kit containing all the necessary parts: window, rubber or plastic frame, sealant, and a bead tool for rubber-mounted windows.
- A window kit containing all the necessary parts: window, rubber or plastic frame, sealant, and a bead tool for rubber-mounted windows.
- A jigsaw with multiple metal cutting bits, as you may break a few. Using a hacksaw is not recommended, as neat straight lines are essential.
- A metal file to remove sharp edges after cutting the hole.
- A sharp knife, such as a Stanley knife.
- Paper or cardboard to make a template, just in case your window kit doesn’t come with one.
- Primer and Paint to cover the exposed bare metal and prevent it from rusting.
- Blu-tak or tape to hold the template in place while you cut.
- Safety goggles when cutting the metal.
- Rubber mallet (for the trim)
- Sharp shears
- Alcohol wipes
- Polyurethane bonding adhesive
- Suction cups (optional)
What we did
We did not do any of this in our most recent van build, because the van came with windows and vents already installed.
This is the power of finding a campervan with a poorly designed interior that has had the hard bits already done for you.
I have, however, fit a window on my previous van, twice, when I accidentally smashed the side door window trying to squeeze past a car in a country lane.
When the window has already been cut for you, it is a lot less daunting.